In which Chacha’s alacrity exposes him to
my inner control freak
In Ramadan our
lives are turned upside down. The general idea is to reduce outer distractions
so inner interactions can take centre stage. Its not just food but a whole slew
of other worldly activities that are restricted. Life in Karachi often gets to
feel like a runaway train, so when Ramadan comes round I welcome it with the
relief of one who’s found the brakes. I
am forced to stop, take stock and narrow down. The simple act of proscribing
any form of alimentation during daylight hours lends inner muscle to the deeper
‘authentic’ self.
As I settle into
the rhythm of the fast, I find a blissful inner silence starts to descend and
infuse throughout my being. The usual mental white noise is hushed by the lack
of blood sugar and by the cessation of constant taste-bud stimulation. There’s
a distinct shift away from worldly pleasure to inner treasure.
Which is not to
say that fasting isn’t a challenge! Fasting in Karachi brings with it its own peculiar
pressures, pleasant and unpleasant, both. Heat and long busy days easily erode
one’s energy levels. Possibly the most
stressful and conflicting aspect is iftaar.
Well, not the act of breaking fast itself, but the accompanying culture of
fried foods and over-eating. Once upon a
time iftaar was a matter of a few
dates, water or milk, and maybe a warm beverage or light soup. While dates still
appear on the menu in Pakistan,
iftaari, as the fast-breaking is
known here, is a much grander affair: the common comestibles prepared are pekoras
(spicey gram flour fritters), samosas and chaat (spicy salads of chickpeas or
fruit). There are of course many other delectables but almost every household
would have these as the core of their fast breaking.
I grew up in an
Arab/European family that broke fast with dates and water, prayed and then ate
dinner starting off with a light soup. A far simpler affair. Every year since I moved to Karachi I
would declare my home a pekora-free zone, as I also harbour a morbid fear of re-using
oil (heating oil releases those nasty free-radicals & carcinogenic peroxides). And
every year I have started to succumb more easily to the expectations of fried, toxically tasty
morsels. While virtuous low GI chaats help feed the higher centres of one’s
being, the greasy stuff just drags the energies down. But that, it seems, is what the punters like!
Ramadan meals,therefore, often
become a big deal. Even sacrosanct. During
the first few days the day long deprivation is often rewarded upon fast-breaking
by a heightened awareness of how Nature’s bounty is a banquet of pleasure in
taste and texture, usually taken for granted. In my case this gratitude is accompanied by a
strong streak of nutritional self-righteousness and keen moral aspiration. The
demon fear of starvation is also manacled as you realize you can go through
a calorie free day without collapsing.
Nevertheless over-indulgence
always threatens – let’s be honest here! As my husband and I have grown older, however,
we find that after the first few days of preparing Ramadan ‘treats’, we tend to
retreat to safe, nourishing, digestible
food. In order to function optimally, you cannot indulge in eating what you
like in any amount you like. Post-iftaar indigestion threatens to obviate the
whole purpose of the fast. I start to obsess about what I put into my mouth and
fear invitations to other people’s homes where banquets of fried foods and
other delectable dishes that one wouldn’t normally dream of eating for
'break-fast' are served. Pekoras and samosas are, in the final analysis, hard to resist. At least in my
own home I have greater control. What you put into your body becomes as
important as what it tastes like in your mouth. It’s a happy day when a liking
for the two coincide.
So now let me
wax lyrical about tapenade. Breakfast in general – even outside the ‘fast’ - has long posed a problem for me. Sugary
cereals are out – can’t deal with the post insulin surge-slump. Toast, butter
and jam is another slippery slope, particularly here where we cannot get real
whole wheat bread or pure rye. I never grew up with a British-style ‘fry up’ so its not in
my culinary vocab. The early pre-dawn meal of Sehri demands just the right kind of nourishment, light and savoury. And skipping to the heart of
the matter: there is no substitute for a good tapenade on toast, preferably
with the cooling and sweet counterpoint of fresh yoghurt on top, with a few
fresh mung bean sprouts sprinkled on for crunch and living enzymes. A close
second would be my father’s famous breakfast mixture – based on za'tar (eastern
thyme) and yoghurt.
Made from olives, capers, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, herbs to taste. http://dico-cuisine.fr/news/tapenade |
For Ramadan a few years ago Abbas had brought back with him from South Africa a small but costly jar
of gourmet tapenade from a delicious deli.
And so it was with a sense of self satisfaction that we would spread a
thin layer of this ambrosial paste onto our toast at 4 in the morning. The earthy aromas and unctuous texture
rendered the usual insipid ‘bran’ toast more than just edible, but delicious.
Noble, even! So sparing were we with this treat that it seemed we’d be able to
eke it out over almost the entire month. We were set!
Five days into
the fast the jar disappeared. I let its disappearance go uncommented – after all
we could eat other things too. I wasn’t too perturbed and enjoyed delaying the gratification. But the following day I
searched throughout the kitchen for it. Finally, after a few puzzling hours of
mounting frustration, I discovered the jar in the pickle cupboard. Suspicions aroused, I twisted the lid off to take a whiff – not entirely
forbidden by the fast. Instead of that rich, olivey aroma, a sharp smell of
vinegar scented with Iranian Angelica seed (golpar)
assaulted my nostrils. What?! I was stunned. Some leftover Persian pickles had
been decanted into this more appropriately sized jar. How could this have
happened? As I googled my mind for all logical possibilities, one
rapidly emerged. Chacha must have smelt the tapenade and thought it was off.
And...thrown...it...out! Horrors! But he had saved the jar as he knew how thrifty I am with
jars (well, they are very useful whenever its jam-making
time).
I was
apoplectic.
After a brief
inquisition with Chacha, our tireless bearer-cum-chowkidar, he sheepishly acknowledged
that he had indeed discarded the offending material as it had been left by the
sink – an obvious indication to him that it was meant to be discarded. And
besides, it did smell bad. To him. Needless to say, Chacha has never eaten an
olive in his life, much less nibbled tapenade on melba toast. I’m not sure he even knew they
feature in the Qur’an on that magical list of holy fruit and veg. After his
admissal he first looked chuffed with himself, and then, as he saw my face cloud
over, his eyebrows swiftly contorted into a spasm of mortification.
‘But Chacha!’ I
remonstrated futilely, ‘it wasn’t supposed to be thrown away. It wasn’t
bad!’
‘But it was left
near the sink!’ he cried in dismay.
Too late. In
my fulmination I thoughtlessly trotted out another dagger for his heart.
‘And it was expensive! Sahib had brought it
from abroad!’
Having thus
imbued this absent paste with even more unattainable mystique, Chacha’s
mortification was complete. He hung his head in shame. The pain of failure and
the embarrassment of ignorance radiated from his every pore.
His rueful demeanour slammed the brakes on my juggernaut of annoyance. I immediately
castigated myself: how could I indulge in such indignation in the face of such innocence? Remorse reached down and in and whacked me one.
To see Chacha
thus pained iced my ire in a jiffy, for Chacha is our
resident Man Friday, our ‘salt-of-the-earth’. And without salt bread tastes bland.